Vietnam - in praise of buses by Mark Eveleigh

Vietnam could be described as ‘a tall country that is much more up and down than sideways.’ Go almost anywhere from Saigon and it seems that you are likely to be involved in a fairly long journey. Fortunately overland travel in ‘Nam is as comfortable as it is inexpensive. After a summer spent on air-con-frigid and salsa-blasted long-distance night buses up the length of Central America just the sight of a bus terminal waiting room was beginning to bring on a sudden urge to scramble for a thick woolly ‘chomper’ and a set of ear-plugs. Last month I made the 48 hour bus journey from KL to Bangkok. Even Central American buses are streets ahead of the sort of comforts offered by our beloved National Express and Malay and Thai long distance buses are extremely good.

Even so I was slightly dubious about the prospects of a further 24 hours on a Vietnamese bus travelling from Saigon to Danang. But the winner in this year’s Markies Travel Awards for the ‘world’s best long distance buses’ definitely goes to Vietnam!

I had originally intended to take the train from Saigon. I’m a bit of a rail junky anyway. I don’t collect toy trains or spend my weekends painting old boilers or anything but I do think that rail travel is very often a fast-track into the soul of a country’s mobile population. And since the mobile population is very often the most interesting cross section...

Anyway, who can fail to be seduced by a train journey that goes under the name of the Reunification Express? However, when it came to leaving Saigon Vietnam’s buses won the toss simply because they offered such hassle free departures from the city. No hustling out to some remote railway station, just another quick and terrifying dash (loaded as usual with camera bags and pack) downtown on a Honda Om (literally ‘Honda Hug’) taxi bike. The coach departed from a tour operators in the District 1 ‘backpacker ghetto.’

These Vietnamese long distance buses don’t have reclining seats: instead they have serious bunk beds! There are in fact three rows of bunks, looking something like hospital beds, with backs that raise you almost into a straight sitting position. You take your shoes off at the door and carry them inside in plastic bags so that you can sit with your legs stretched out in front of you. If the bus is not too full aim for the seats at the rear. There are five beds in a row here but if, as I did, you get lucky and have a window bed at the back – and get doubly lucky and have nobody in the beds around – you end up with a sprawling king-sized bed all to yourself.

I made half the journey to Danang in a local standard sleeper bus with only half a dozen other passengers (mostly Vietnamese). The journey was pure bliss. At midnight however we had to transfer. My ticket onwards from here got me onto a more ‘luxurious’ tourist bus. The layout was the same but the seats were ergonomically designed in the sort of moulded plastic and fake leather that would make the inside of a Lexus people mover look shabby. However, this bus was completely full with backpackers and by midnight the air was getting pretty funky and musty. My advice would be to downgrade and go for local transport. As long as you do that Vietnam has, hands-down the world’s best buses!

I made the return, southbound journey, by train anyway. Ask for ‘soft-sleep’ tickets rather than ‘hard-sleep’ and you bag less crowded cabins with only 4 beds as opposed to 6...as the name would suggest you get softer beds. Vietnam’s trains also get the big thumbs up. Next time I head back I plan to travel by train from Saigon to Hanoi...and since the Danang-Saigon ‘express’ departed only 5 hours later than scheduled I think Vietnam’s Reunification Express is probably still likely to give British Rail a run for it’s money in the next Markies Travel Awards.
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Money whilst on your RTW

What should my budget be - well how long is a piece of string?! It’s a tricky question, as every traveler has different requirements, travel plans and standards of living. There are, however, a few general tips and rules of thumb that usually stand strong with the vast majority of round the world travellers.

• Beware of ‘false economies’ – it is easy to get carried away trying to do everything for the lowest possible cost, only to find that you pay out more in ‘extras’ further down the line. A good example of this would be joining a budget tour only to find that you have to pay for all meals, the guide’s meals and some additional accommodation.
• We always recommend pre-booking a first couple of nights accommodation, especially when arriving at a new destination late at night.
• Bear in mind additional costs you may incur by purchasing an unsuitable round the world ticket. We offer some great deals but if you end up having to spend days on a bus or paying for additional flights when abroad you may end up regretting not paying a little more upfront. Speak to you consultant for advice on this.
• Asia and the Indian subcontinent offer fantastic round the world stops if you have a tight travelling budget. Living is cheap and you will find the budget traveler is very well catered for.
• Overland tours and safaris are often the only way to access the ‘must-see’ destinations in places such as Central or East Africa or the Altiplano. Don’t always presume that you can do it cheaper independently.

A budget

We are going to stick our necks out and offer some ballpark figures for a few suggested travelling budgets, to help give you a guideline:

Gap Year Traveler - Fresh out of school and on a tight budget – away to travel rather than socialise every night, happy to stay in budget hostels, take the cheapest class of bus or train and eats at the budget restaurants.

* South East Asia and the Indian subcontinent - £15 - £20 per day.
* South and Central America, Africa, Australasia, Middle East - £15-£20 per day.
* North America, Europe, South Pacific - £20 + per day.


Career/Senior Gapper – Looking to travel and to live a little. You like to shop for souvenirs for the home, eat at some nice restaurants now and again, travel on a better standard of bus and stay in mid range accommodation.

* South East Asia and the Indian subcontinent - £20 per day.
* South and Central America, Africa,Australasia, Middle East - £25-£30 per day.
* North America, Europe, South Pacific - £35 + per day.

How to carry your travel money whilst away

In recent years things have changed for the better and it is far easier to carry your travel money safely. Why?


• Firstly, ATM's (holes in the wall or bank machines) are far more widely available and if you have the correct type of card – this usually means Visa, Maestro, Cirrus (you should check with you bank if you are unsure), you can obtain your cash in installments by using them. Guidebooks are usually a great source to find out where you can find the nearest bank machine or check here

• Getting money transferred is cheaper and easier now than ever before. This saves you carrying large sums of money in cash and travellers cheques.
• You can pay by Visa, MasterCard and various other credit cards in many more outlets than a few years ago. Budget travellers should not expect to be able to pay by card at many hostels, cafes etc but you will be able to withdraw money with your card in the larger towns and cities.

There are lots of ATM's in the Asia or Africa, at least in cities, and in many places people would never expect to find them. But sometimes the only ATM around isn't connected to your bank, the power is out, the phone connection is down, or the ATM is out of cash because of a local holiday you've never heard of.

When they work, ATM's are the best way to get money while you are traveling. Leaving your money in a bank because it earns interest until you withdraw it. Almost everywhere, ATM's dispense cash in the local currency, so you don't have to deal with exchanging one currency for another. But don’t count on finding ATM’s *everywhere*, or you might get stuck someplace with no cash and no access to your money. Just in case, have some money readily available.

Credit Cards

Save your credit cards for expensive purchases. For smaller expenses, get cash from ATM's, and if the local ATM withdrawal limits allow, take out enough cash supply to last several days.
Fees are the down side to using ATM’s and credit cards. Check with the company that issues your cards, before you leave home, so you know what to expect and can bring the cards with the lowest fees.

Credit Card and ATM fees

Typical fees include charges for each cash withdrawal or purchase outside your home country or in foreign currency, plus a percentage surcharge over the wholesale exchange rate. For example, you might be charged £5 for each withdrawal by the foreign bank whose ATM you use, and your withdrawal might be converted at an exchange rate 2% worse than the wholesale rate. That works out to a total of £7 on a £100 transaction. So its better to do as few transactions as possible is a good rule of thumb - also don't stress about it too much - ATMs are still the safest way of getting money. Stuart, a Director here, once met a guy in Cambodia who carried all his cash in his moneybelt - he got robbed - and that is expensive.

Travellers Cheques

Traveler’s cheques have largely been replaced by ATM cards, and with good reason. In most of the world, you have to go to a bank (sometimes only certain banks) to cash traveler’s cheques. However, we recommend you carry a few travelers’checks in your money belt in case there are no available ATM's, there is a problem withdrawing from them, or their fees are excessive.


Some tips from the round the world team

• Always carry a few dollars in cash - it’s a great way of ensuring there is a roof over your head and a meal in your stomach if all other options have failed you - it happens now and again!
• Money belts are an essential item. Some choose to use them on an everyday basis whilst others wear them only on long journeys and when carrying larger sums of cash from the banks.
• Never pull out large bundles of cash in public, it attracts unwanted attention and will probably drive the price of any sale up. It’s always advisable to keep a small amount of change in the main part of your wallet or money belt with any larger sums hidden.
• In some countries you will get an enormous number of notes in local currency when you change just a small amount of your home currency. Bear this in mind as you will have to carry it with you.
• Most hostels, hotels and beach huts have safes, often situated behind the reception desk. Take advantage of the opportunity to safely store any of your valuables that you will not need during your stay but be sure to collect your items when you leave…it could be a very long journey back.

Video inspiration for your RTW

Need some inspiration for your RTW? Click here

Robert Burns - drinker, republican, taxman, lover, poet - Happy Birthday - heres a wee poem

Wee, sleekit, cowrin, tim'rous beastie,
O, what a panic's in thy breastie!
Thou need na start awa sae hasty,
Wi' bickering brattle!
I wad be laith to rin an' chase thee
Wi' murd'ring pattle!

I'm truly sorry man's dominion,
Has broken nature's social union,
An' justifies that ill opinion,
What makes thee startle
At me, thy poor, earth-born companion,
An' fellow-mortal!

I doubt na, whiles, but thou may thieve;
What then? poor beastie, thou maun live!
A daimen icker in a thrave
'S a sma' request;
I'll get a blessin wi' the lave,
An' never miss't!

Thy wee bit housie, too, in ruin!
It's silly wa's the win's are strewin!
An' naething, now, to big a new ane,
O' foggage green!
An' bleak December's winds ensuin,
Baith snell an' keen!

Thou saw the fields laid bare an' waste,
An' weary winter comin fast,
An' cozie here, beneath the blast,
Thou thought to dwell -
Till crash! the cruel coulter past
Out thro' thy cell.

That wee bit heap o' leaves an' stibble,
Has cost thee mony a weary nibble!
Now thou's turn'd out, for a' thy trouble,
But house or hald,
To thole the winter's sleety dribble,
An' cranreuch cauld!

But Mousie, thou art no thy lane,
In proving foresight may be vain;
The best-laid schemes o' mice an' men
Gang aft agley,
An' lea'e us nought but grief an' pain,
For promis'd joy!

Still thou art blest, compar'd wi' me;
The present only toucheth thee:
But och! I backward cast my e'e,
On prospects dreaer!
An' forward, tho' I canna see,
I guess an' fear!

RTWs at Christmas and New Year 2010

Availability - a few rules

Coming back is just as important as going out

You can book pretty much all major RTWs ex UK now but coming back wont be available for another 2-3 weeks.

The issue is the return leg. Most of the GDSs operate on the 330 day rule (you can only book 330 days in advance) especially pertaining to RTWs so the earliest you can book to come back at the beginning of January is the beginning of February 2010.

Leave in November

There really arent any great deals at this time of year - if you see anything south of £1000 book it - however you can get that if you go out at the end of November and back after mid January you'll get stops in Asia and North America for around the £1100-1200 mark

1. BA 10 K 30NOV BKKLHR HS1 0010 0555 O E TU
2. QF 2 K 23DEC BKKSYD HS1 1725 #0625 O E TH
3. QF 31 K 6JAN SYDLAX HS1 1740 #0620 O E TH
3. BA 151 K 10JAN LAX LON HS1 1040 #0520 O E TH

Leave around the 9th December or before

Go before the 9th Dec and come after 11th January and you'll get a reasonable shoulder season price of around £1400 for a multi-stop

1. BA 10 K 09DEC BKKLHR HS1 0010 0555 O E TU
2. QF 2 K 23DEC BKKSYD HS1 1725 #0625 O E TH
3. QF 31 K 12JAN SYDLHR HS1 1740 #0620 O E TH

Leave beginning December back beginning January

1. QF 2 K 07DEC LHRBKK HS1 2145 #1600 O E TU
2. QF 2 K 23DEC BKKSYD HS1 1725 #0625 O E TH
3. QF 31 K 06JAN SYDLHR HS1 1740 #0620 O E TH

Go before the 9th Dec and at the beginning of January and you'll get a reasonable shoulder season price of around £1200 for a multi-stop

Leave middle December back beginning January

1. QF 2 K 17DEC LHRBKK HS1 2145 #1600 O E TU
2. QF 2 K 23DEC BKKSYD HS1 1725 #0625 O E TH
3. QF 31 K 06JAN SYDLHR HS1 1740 #0620 O E TH

Go around the 17th Dec and come after 6th January and you'll pas a high season price of around £1700 for a RTW

Favorite Deal

UK - Buenos Aire - Sydney - Bangkok - UK

Leaving before 13th December, back beginning of January its around £1700

For more RTW deals click here

Vietnam fruit market

Danang, Vietnam fruit market;Mark Eveleigh with roundtheworldflights.com - click here

Betel nut in Vietnam

Betel nut was once the drug of choice all over South East Asia but it is now fast disappearing in all but the most traditional areas. - by Mark Eveleigh, for roundtheworldflights.com - click here

Laos - a video vignette

Laos - a video vignette here

India - another video vignette

India with roundtheworldflights.com here

India - a video vignette

India with roundtheworldflights.com here

Vietnam - it's addictive

Vietnam was a detour from my original schedule. I had been heading there many times. But the only thing that is 100% certain in Asia is that the unexpected is sure to happen. The gods of travel had for one reason or another always deemed that I should head off on another tangent (usually following assignments to other areas...in some cases much less appealing). And once again I missed out on Vietnam. I have been in Thailand perhaps a dozen times and this time I was determined not to get sidetracked so from the very beginning I had scheduled Vietnam as a 3-week side-trip from my RTW route.

I had heard that Saigon is an addiction. “Once you get to know it,” one old Asia hand had told me, “you will certainly fall in love with it and you won’t want to go anywhere else.” I nodded noncommittally, thinking it unlikely that it would ever rival Bangkok for pure excitement. I have always rated Bangkok as one of the most fascinating cities in the world. (This is no definitive list but Marrakech, Istanbul, Mexico City and New York would certainly also feature).

I have never been able to get my head around calling Saigon ‘Ho Chi Minh City’ but it turns out that this is not a problem since it still remains almost universally Saigon to the locals. Bangkok will always be spectacular but Saigon is like Bangkok must have been fifty years ago. Such things as coolie hats, betel nut and pretty girls sitting side-saddle on the back of motorbikes are an increasing rarity in Bangkok. In old Saigon they are still common. Taxi motorbikes still race you through the traffic as they do in Jakarta (but with less dirt and dust and, usually, dents) making it a much faster – and more exciting – city to negotiate than is Bangkok. They are called Honda Om and the name literally means ‘Honda hug’, presumably because of the way terrified passengers cling to their rider.

In other parts of Asia you can see three people riding a moped and occasionally you might even see four: in Vietnam four is fairly common...and sometimes you can even see five people ‘riding bitch’ behind the rider!

I arrived in Saigon on the red-eye flight from Bangkok on Christmas morning and, enjoying some luxury for once, checked into the wonderful old Rex Hotel – once home to the likes of Graham Greene and a whole host of famous journalists and photographers from the war. I spent most of my time downtown among the old streets and markets though and by sundown on Boxing Day the city had stolen my heart. I fell in love almost at first sight and can’t remember the last time that I was so instantly smitten by a city.

Last week I was talking to an American retiree (I later discovered that he was an ex-spy...but don’t tell anyone) at a beach town in central Vietnam.“Don’t let ‘Nam get too much into your blood,” he warned me, “you will get hooked and you will die in Vietnam.”

Coming from a spy it could have been taken as a threat but he was just a complete devotee to life in Vietnam. He had been in the country almost consistently (discounting the odd unavoidable exile) ever since he joined the marines in 1964. Even after just a week I could well understand what keeps him there.

And he was right I did get hooked. Take my advice and let Vietnam hook you too. But don’t worry you probably won’t die there either.

For more of Mark's blog click here

Saigon at 1000mph

Saigon at 1000mph - New video by Mark Eveleigh for roundtheworldflights.com
Click here

Vietnam runs on moped power....

These vehicles are driven to extremes! by Mark Eveleigh for roundtheworldflights.com click here

Onboard Air New Zealand - a new video

Whats it's like onboard an Air New Zealand RTW - click here

Onboard Qantas - a new video

What it's like onboard Qantas RTW's click here

Boat Ballet video on the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok

Boat Ballet video on the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok - by travel photojournalist Mark Eveleigh - click here
See the rest of his exclusive round the world flights blog here

Extreme Thai massage video

Extreme Thai massage video - by travel photojournalist Mark Eveleigh - click here
See the rest of his exclusive round the world flights blog here

roundtheworldflights.com in the snow!

KL - some thoughts....

Lai Foong

Lai Foong Coffee Shop has been a fixture of Chinatown’s Tun Tan Cheng Lock street for more than fifty years now. It is actually a collection of half a dozen frantically hectic eateries and is famous for Lai Foong Beef Noodles and for what must be the most tooth-rottingly sweet coffee in Malaysia.

The rushing waiters yell in shrill Chinese and from the surrounding tables you can hear voices chattering in Malay, Mandarin, Cantonese, English and Tamil. The cultural mix is as mind-bogglingly diverse as the menu.

Four ringgit will get you a heaped serving of delicious Penang Fried Kuey Teow – thick noodles served with egg, chicken and vegetable...but for just a little more you can get a plate of omasum, or cow intestines. The board of fare also offers tripe, lean meat, tendon and what is described simply as ‘balls.’

You can wash your tendons and balls down with a glass of something that the menu calls Jolly Shady. Presumably this is in fact a shandy. Not being a Muslim establishment, Royal Stout, Guinness and Tiger Beer are also on offer. There’s also Carlsberg Special Brew which reminds me only of High School Days but to which the Chinese typically have attributed some supernatural health-giving powers. But then the Chinese see aphrodisiac qualities in everything.

It was here where a Chinese street trader once sidled up to me with a packet of something which he claimed was the world’s most powerful aphrodisiac.
“Test it out,” he said – “if you drop just a few grains of this into a plate of instant noodles all the noodles will straighten out!”


Coliseum
Time almost seems to stand still at The Coliseum. This KL icon is close to celebrating its 100th birthday and has changed little since the good old days when planters used to occupy the rented rooms and colonial engineers used to meet here for sundowners. The bar is said to be the highest bar in South East Asia: it was ergonomically designed at a time long before the term was even thought of and is placed ‘exactly at the height of the average Englishman’s elbow.’


The old bar has seen some wild nights and the loyal crowd of staunch regulars regularly threaten to rebel (or, worse, desert) whenever the owner threatens to refurbish or even just paint the tobacco-stained walls.


You never know who you might bump into in the Coliseum’s bar. Last time I was here I ended up on a G&T binge with a leading military advisor from East Timor and a man who claimed to be an exiled Bengali noble who was battling to regain his ancestral fifedom.
Returning this time the regulars still look vaguely familiar and even old Captain Ho, the famous Chinese waiter has recently celebrated his eighty-eighth birthday but still insists on hobbling out of the kitchen to tie the napkin around your neck and serve up your sizzling (or “sizzering”) hotplate steaks. The traditional British Pot Pies are also a sought after delicacy but the staff here refuses to be rushed...the menu stipulates that these delicacies must be ordered with three days advance notice.


The only noticeable difference these days is that the bar-staff seem to be a bit stingier on the gin slings. Can it be that even the venerable Coli is having to face up to an economic downturn?


Every time I stay at the Coli I think that it’s impossible that it can still be here when I next get back. I’ve been saying that for years though and chances are I guess the infamous ‘Coli’ might outlast me after all!